Shukran / Toda / Thank You

I leave Jerusalem in the morning, which means today has been a day of thanking people and saying goodbye.

Jill, one of the College volunteers and someone I've come to consider a friend, asked me recently about my ability to receive: a hug, appreciation, hospitality.... The conversation stuck with me for the last few weeks, and especially today as I expressed my gratitude to members of St. George's Cathedral and College staff who have taken a risk on a Canadian seminarian--the first at St. George's Cathedral in people's recollection--and a female, to boot. They have graced me with ears to listen, shared their experiences and offered advice, they have encouraged me and challenged me, spiritually, emotionally and intellectually. They have given of their time and helped me nurture and develop my ministry in this diocese. They have shared in my journey.

I feel blessed and honoured to have had opportunity to receive these gifts so freely shared.

This evening over a farewell dinner at the Christmas Hotel, I listened as some of them shared their appreciation for the gifts I brought to the ministry of this diocese.

I am also grateful for receiving the opportunity to travel to, and spend three months living, learning, travelling and working in Jerusalem. Without the Anglican Church of Canada's Theological Students International Intern Program this experience would not have been possible.

I received overwhelming hospitablity during my time here. I have received appreciation for my presence and for what I managed to bring to the diocese. And I have received hugs and well wishes as I say goodbye.

I leave Jerusalem in the morning, knowing I have received some incredible grace. And I thank those who offered it.

View from the restaurant I had lunch with the ladies at, overlooking Ein Kerem

My lunch.

Jill, Lois and Barbara

Farewell dinner: Lois, Deb, Fr. Bob, Bishop Suheil, Fr. Zahi, Barbar and Shafeka, the Bishop's wife

Lois and Deb

Fr. Bob and Bishop Suheil

Barbara and I

Barbara, Shafeka, Jill, Lois and Deb

Bishop Suheil and I

Preparing to Leave

According to the band REM, leaving New York is never easy. Well, apparently neither is leaving Jerusalem.

I admit, the last two weeks, I've been counting down the days until I head home. This is absolutely no reflection on how much I've enjoyed my time in Israel-Palestine, appreciated the exposure I've gained, recognized growth in depth of my own spirituality or cherished the people I've encountered.

The reality, as I've written before, is that Jerusalem is a difficult place to live, particularly for a woman. You have to sort of put a 'game face' on, which allows you to face the glaring cultural and gender differences, not to mention political sensitivities of the region. Clearly after a mere three months here, I am still an outsider. But I could spend five years or twenty years here, and still be considered an outsider in this place. Add to this, you walk this journey on your own. You meet people who join you along the way, but the bulk of the journey is yours and yours alone. Despite the joys and excitement of being here, these things wear on you.

I found I could keep my 'game face' on partly because I knew the timeframe within which I was staying. But as the reality of heading home to familiar faces of friends and family drew closer, I knew that game face was starting slip off. I could catch myself already thinking of sitting at the cottage relaxing in a tank top (shocking!) and questiong how I will possibly do justice in my story-telling to the experience I've had here.

And then, something surprising. Wednesday afternoon, Fr. Bob and I finished writing my evaluation for the internship. With the last signature in place, my internship was 'officially' over. And it hit me:

Heading home means leaving Jerusalem. It means this journey is over.

I was gobsmacked by the mix of emotions that washed over me this week. And rather than rushing around trying to "fit in" the last couple of sites I didn't see, I've spent my last two days talking with and visiting friends and colleagues; walking slowly through the Old City and revisitng sites I've loved, considering how different my impresion of the people and the city is now compared to when I arrived. I've re-read my blog entries to reflect on all I've done and seen. I've tried to freezeframe the images into my brain, knowing full well my pictures and my memory will play tricks on me in time.

Leaving Jerusalem is proving more difficult than I anticipated a week ago.

Ramon Crater and The Red Sea

As Mondays have been my day off this summer, and as they have coordinated with Fr. Bob and Deb's day off, we decided on a we adventure for my last week in Jerusalem. We rented a car and set out for the Ramon Crater in the Negev desert. The Crater is not an impact crater, but rather the world's largest erosion circle. It's enormous, stunningling beautiful and when you're down in it, perfectly silent.

Ramon Crater

Ramon Crater

Down in the Ramon Crater

Where I sat down in the Ramon Crater

To really navigate the desert for perfect silence, you'd need 4 wheel drive, which we did not have in our Mitsubishi rental...so when we took a break to sit in the middle of the Crater, we were periodically interrupted by passing cars.

The Negev is no Arabian desert with miles and miles of sand dunes. It is filled with large hills/small mountains of hard compacted sand and rock. The rock faces change frequently, in colour and texture: from PEI-like red, to white and from crumbling rocks to smooth surfaces. And then you can quickly find yourself in a plain.

South of Ramon Crater, military operations, roadside. The tank just shot into the mountain, you can see the impact smoke

 After coming up to the Crater, Fr. Bob, the only driver for the day and with no coaxing from Deb or I, suggested we keep driving and head to the Red Sea. I have a large smile of encouragement and onward we went.

There really is very little between Beersheba (mid desert) and Eilat (tip of the Red Sea) except rock and sand, which made for a lovely drive. And as you approach Eilat, the Jordan mountains are on your left, and the city just springs up before you, quite bustling and modern. In fact, it looked a little like Daytona Beach on Spring Break (smaller version). The water was jam-packed, the beach-front hotels are filled with families. And it was ridiculously hot.

The Red Sea

Me and the Red Sea

We sought the comfort of the air conditioned Meridien Hotel, ate lunch, and enjoyed the view of the cobalt blue water against the very close Jordan mountains on the other side of the water.

View from our lunch table

Our trip down to the Sea followed a route pretty much in the middle of the desert. Our route back to Jerusalem follwed highway 90, hugging the Jordan mountains (which we could not see because of the haze) and through the Salt Pans to the Dead Sea, Masada, Qumran and the Jordan Valley. It was a fantastic view as the sun began to set and the light hit the mountains.

Between Eilat and the Dead Sea

Rock formations just south of Salt Pans, south of the Dead Sea

Salt, extracted along the Salt Pans

Salt Pans

Between the Salt Pans and the Dead Sea

Along the Dead Sea, coming up toward Masada

Masada

For a day spent mostly in the car, it was wonderful!

Last Prayers for Peace Evensong Reflection

As this is my final Sunday here in Jerusalem, I offer my reflections being given at this evenings Evensong, Prayers for Peace.

2 Cor. 8:1-9

Motivating people twoard Christian stewardship is not an easy task. Not in this age of self-interest and economic crisis. Certainly not in a city that appears to be fraying at the edges and threatening to rip at the seams at any moment.

Paul spent much time promoting and seeking support for a collection to help believers facing unusally hard times due to famine. The need was genuine and the response charitable. His approach was subtle:
* He compares the chuch in Corinth to other great churches,
* He pushes them to excel in this area, engaging their competitive side,
* He appeals to their sense of international pride and desire to avoid embarrassment.

In other words, he speaks to the church's ego.

He is not necessarily seeking new givings, either. He is simply asking people to follow through on their original promises. And he compares attitudes, not dollar amounts. He speaks rather of the joyous, willing and earnest attitudes of the givers.

The stewardship compaign continues, but the appeal sounds slightly different. Although the people of Jerusalem, and those across Israel, the West Bank and Gaza, do no necessarily face "famine," their need is nontheless just as genuine and urgent.

Today at St. George's, pilgrims and visitors are asked to:
* Engage with the people, experience the living history and to learn about the conflict and oppression that prevents peace and reconciliation from lasting;
* Return home and share the experiences had with the same enthusiasm with which they moved between Biblical and historical sites; and
* Perhaps less subtly than Paul, to financially support the Christian ministry here in Jerusalem.

The same test is given to us today that Paul put before the Corinthians:
* To excel in faith, speech, knowledge, eagerness and love;
* To compel those responsible for leadership and authority to complete and follow through on their promises; and
*To be generous in giving more than you may think you have to offer.

As I think Paul hoped, I will feel my ego bruised and my international preputation further tarnished if after I leave Jerusalem, my eagerness does not match the love I proclaim to possess.

Haifa

I spent Friday, Saturday and Sunday in Haifa. I originally planned to stay at the Sisters of Carmel convent but this would not do. The mother (Naomi) of one of the men (Haleem) who works for the diocese, lives in Haifa. She was more than happy to put me up for two nights. In fact, it would have been rude for me not to stay with her!

I took the bus from Jerusalem to Haifa. The two hour ride cost me only 88 shekels (less than $24 return). I took a cab from the bus station directly to the Baha'i Gardens. I was able to walk down the first two levels on my own, but after finding some lunch, I returned to take the tour of the Gardens (you cannot walk them on your own, only through a guide at specified times).

The Gardens (World Centre) is the spiritual heart of the Baha'i Faith and where the Faith's holist shrine is located which houses the resting place of Baha'u'llah, the founder. The Shrine is a place for quiet prayer and meditation, where no ceremonies or religious servies are held. The ornamentation has no religious significance, only aesthetic purpose. Sadly, the shrine is being renovated and so is closed (as of last week) to visitors and is wrapped in a sort of scaffolding.

Despite this, the grounds are beautiful. The bright green grass and the colours of the flowers and the flowing water are a stunning contrast to the typical white stone buildings of the mountainside. The city of Haifa in general, has made a lovely effort at beautifying itself - with flowers and palm trees lining streets and sidewalks. My senses welcomed the colour!

After the Gardens, I toured the German colony, which is basically one road, the length of say Sparks St. in Ottawa, lined with 19th century homes that have been renovated into restaurants and stores. The Colony begins at the foot of the Baha'i Gardens and extends nearly to the pier/ship yard. At night in the Colony, you can see the lights of the Gardens come on, which is quite lovely.

Friday evening I made my way to Naomi's house.She lives in an apartment close to the Colony, with a fantastic view of the Mediterranean. Given Haifa is situated on a mountain...there aren't many views that aren't gorgeous.

I've not stayed in a strangers house in a long time. Before leaving for Haifa, I was a little worried Naomi would feel obligated to entertain me or fuss over feeding me! Mostly, I was worried about how (un)comfortable it would feel to be on the receiving end of a stranger's hospitality - to allow someone I don't know, and may never have an opportunity to repay the generosity, host me.

As it turned out, I was surprised by how natural it felt. Naomi and I were quite at ease,  assuring each other we could keep things light and not fuss. We had dinner together Friday night and sat in her living room and chatted about our lives.

Saturday, after an Arabic breakfast of fried cheese and scrambled egg, fruit and homemade fig jam (I do love the figs), I set out on my own. I walked from Naomi's apartment further up Mt. Carmel to the Sisters of Carmel convent. Then I took the cable car down the mountain to the beach (relieved not to have to walk down the mountain in the heat!).

I settled at two spots along the beach during my day, the first more secluded, but a dirty beach. The second, much busier but clean. I had my fill of sunshine for the day, and having learned from my experience in Tel Aviv (during which I got a little heat stroke), I drank a tonne of water and got out of the scorching sun before I was crispy.

Saturday evening, Naomi and I went to the German Colony for dinner. Her son, Haleem, is a partner in a restaurant called Douzan. The ambiance of the restaurant was lovely and it (almost) cooled off enough for dinner to be comfortable outside on the patio. We did have large fans pointed on us though!

Naomi took the opportunity of company to take a stroll around the Colony before we headed back to her apartment.

St. Luke's, Haifa

Sunday morning, I joined Naomi at St. Luke's, the Anglican Church in Haifa which is part of the Diocese of Jerusalem. It was a tiny church with pretty grounds and a very welcoming Arab congregation. The service was in Arabic, but one of the parishioners very graciously translated quietly as the priest preached. The Eucharistic prayer was the shortest I've ever heard (it was extremely hot) and with only one priest present and only the ordained being allowed to dispense communion, the priest intincted the host in the wine and placed it on our tongue (another first for me).

After a brief coffee hour, Naomi and I returned to her apartment for lunch and my return to Jerusalem.


A few more pictures...

The scaffolded Shrine

Naomi's Apartment and view from

Naomi and I outside St. Luke's

Like Seeing it for the First Time

I've been really privileged to be able to watch other people's reactions when they arrive in Jerusalem for the first time. First, when I was on the Palestine of Jesus course, I watched my family group as they saw the Old City walls, as they walked through Holy Sepulcher, and as they caught a glimps of the magnificent golden Dome. Yesterday, Robert Camara, one of the three Canadian students participating in the Theological Students International Intern Program that has brought me to Jerusalem, arrived here. He just completed his three-month internship in Brazil and has taken the opportunity to attend the Palestine of Jesus course himself. As such, I got the opportunity to watch him react in awe to all the same sites.

What's completely awesome is how we all have the exact same reaction: "I can't believe I'm really here" and "I didn't think things would be close" and "Wow...it's smaller than I expected."

The other completely awesome thing is that each time I walk with someone as they see part of the city for the first time, I relive what my first few days and weeks here were like. You're simply in awe. Every sound and smell is fascinating. The people are intriguing. You're falling in love.

I'm so grateful I've been able to do this over and over again so my love affair with the city doesn't end.

Robert and I walked through the Old City. I took him up the Austrian Hospice for a view of the City and the Dome, through the Jewish quarter and into the Christian quarter. I introduced him to Bilal, the fabric store owner my family group met on the Palestine of Jesus course and who has probably seen more business this summer on account of the Rev. Michelle Childs than he can keep up with! Then we headed to the Jerusalem Hotel for dinner and live music.

It was fantastic to see a warm familiar face and to spend time catching up on stories from our summers we haven't been able to blog about! I am very much looking forward to hearing Robert's impressions post-course!

A few pictures of our evening.

Robert on top of the Austrian Hospice

Finally! A picture of me with the Dome

Robert in checking out the architecture in the Jewish quarter

Robert and I over dinner at the Jerusalem Hotel.