Considering Lillies: Haifa

I spent Friday, Saturday and Sunday in Haifa. I originally planned to stay at the Sisters of Carmel convent but this would not do. The mother (Naomi) of one of the men (Haleem) who works for the diocese, lives in Haifa. She was more than happy to put me up for two nights. In fact, it would have been rude for me not to stay with her!

I took the bus from Jerusalem to Haifa. The two hour ride cost me only 88 shekels (less than $24 return). I took a cab from the bus station directly to the Baha'i Gardens. I was able to walk down the first two levels on my own, but after finding some lunch, I returned to take the tour of the Gardens (you cannot walk them on your own, only through a guide at specified times).

The Gardens (World Centre) is the spiritual heart of the Baha'i Faith and where the Faith's holist shrine is located which houses the resting place of Baha'u'llah, the founder. The Shrine is a place for quiet prayer and meditation, where no ceremonies or religious servies are held. The ornamentation has no religious significance, only aesthetic purpose. Sadly, the shrine is being renovated and so is closed (as of last week) to visitors and is wrapped in a sort of scaffolding.

Despite this, the grounds are beautiful. The bright green grass and the colours of the flowers and the flowing water are a stunning contrast to the typical white stone buildings of the mountainside. The city of Haifa in general, has made a lovely effort at beautifying itself - with flowers and palm trees lining streets and sidewalks. My senses welcomed the colour!

After the Gardens, I toured the German colony, which is basically one road, the length of say Sparks St. in Ottawa, lined with 19th century homes that have been renovated into restaurants and stores. The Colony begins at the foot of the Baha'i Gardens and extends nearly to the pier/ship yard. At night in the Colony, you can see the lights of the Gardens come on, which is quite lovely.

Friday evening I made my way to Naomi's house.She lives in an apartment close to the Colony, with a fantastic view of the Mediterranean. Given Haifa is situated on a mountain...there aren't many views that aren't gorgeous.

I've not stayed in a strangers house in a long time. Before leaving for Haifa, I was a little worried Naomi would feel obligated to entertain me or fuss over feeding me! Mostly, I was worried about how (un)comfortable it would feel to be on the receiving end of a stranger's hospitality - to allow someone I don't know, and may never have an opportunity to repay the generosity, host me.

As it turned out, I was surprised by how natural it felt. Naomi and I were quite at ease, assuring each other we could keep things light and not fuss. We had dinner together Friday night and sat in her living room and chatted about our lives.

Saturday, after an Arabic breakfast of fried cheese and scrambled egg, fruit and homemade fig jam (I do love the figs), I set out on my own. I walked from Naomi's apartment further up Mt. Carmel to the Sisters of Carmel convent. Then I took the cable car down the mountain to the beach (relieved not to have to walk down the mountain in the heat!).

I settled at two spots along the beach during my day, the first more secluded, but a dirty beach. The second, much busier but clean. I had my fill of sunshine for the day, and having learned from my experience in Tel Aviv (during which I got a little heat stroke), I drank a tonne of water and got out of the scorching sun before I was crispy.

Saturday evening, Naomi and I went to the German Colony for dinner. Her son, Haleem, is a partner in a restaurant called Douzan. The ambiance of the restaurant was lovely and it (almost) cooled off enough for dinner to be comfortable outside on the patio. We did have large fans pointed on us though!

Naomi took the opportunity of company to take a stroll around the Colony before we headed back to her apartment.

St. Luke's, Haifa

Sunday morning, I joined Naomi at St. Luke's, the Anglican Church in Haifa which is part of the Diocese of Jerusalem. It was a tiny church with pretty grounds and a very welcoming Arab congregation. The service was in Arabic, but one of the parishioners very graciously translated quietly as the priest preached. The Eucharistic prayer was the shortest I've ever heard (it was extremely hot) and with only one priest present and only the ordained being allowed to dispense communion, the priest intincted the host in the wine and placed it on our tongue (another first for me).

After a brief coffee hour, Naomi and I returned to her apartment for lunch and my return to Jerusalem.

A few more pictures...