First Sunday

Last night I led Evening Prayer, which I love doing (not only because it's an opportunity to ring the bells). We had 10 people! With no group staying at the Guest House, that was a good turn out, I thought. I'm finding I really enjoy greeting and talking with other pilgrims about their experience of hearing the Word spoken here in the Holy Land. Like me, many of them speak of how emotion they feel the first time.

This morning, I jumped in with both feet. There are three Sunday services at the Cathedral: 8h (English), 9h30 (Arabic) and 11h (English). I attended the 9h30 and 11h. In This Anglican Church of Ours, Patricia Bays talks about how regardless of where she is in the world, when she enters an Anglican service she has no trouble following along. I found this to be (mostly) true as I joined in the Arabic servcie. I mean, I had NO idea what Fr. Zahi preached about...but I knew when and what to respond at given parts of the service (Ok...my translated order of service helped!). Funny though, I would say the responses or prayers in English, obviously, and still have a line or two to go when they would be finished! I would just say them quickly to myself and leave it at that.

In true Anglican style, the Arabic community hosts a sort of coffee hour after the service. I had no time to attend before helping set up for the 11h service. I did make my way through the line up of 4 (yes, 4 clergy), including Bishop Suheil, whom I was able to meet. Bishop Suheil leaves for Halifax tomorrow to attend General Synod as Bishop John's guest.

At the 11h service we celebrated Trinity Sunday, with hymns I recognized and "traditional" organ music. I was asked to read the first reading and the Psalm. I checked before the service started that the readings were on the lecturn. And yet...when I finished reading from Proverbs and turned the page for the Psalm...it wasn`t there! Normally this would make me a bit flustered. The congregation does not have prayer books out in the chairs, they only use a booklet Order of Service. Luckily, I spoted what I'm sure was the only prayer book (a Book of Common Prayer, obviously) in the nave, explained I did not have the response handy so I would simply read the Psalm in its entirety. All was smooth. No one blinked.

Note to St. Helen's Orleans: Perhaps I'm finally learning to think on my feet!

This evening I attended a candle lit Taizé service, which was lovely. The hymns were accompanied by keyboard and were a tad faster than I've experienced, but the space, the prayers and readings, the use of Icons and the time for silent reflection/meditation was a wonderful way to end the day.

It was still light out when the service started, so the candles don't have the same affect in these photos, unfortunately.

Facing Fears

Today I took Ramparts Walk which along part of the wall surrounding the Old City of Jerusalem. I topped the wall at Jaffa Gate and decsended at Dung Gate. In the map below, the X (work with me, it's supposed to be an X) underneath "City" is roughly where I live at St. George's Cathedral/College.

For some perspective, it takes me about 10 minutes to walk to Damascus Gate and maybe another 10 or 15 to walk to Jaffa Gate. The walk along the top of the wall took me about 45 minutes.

Now the distance isn't that far...but I'm afraid of heights.... Each of the little knots that point out of the wall is a "tower" which means I had to climb a little higher (only about 5ft more, but still). This wasn't a problem when I first climbed up the wall (which is a lie, I sort of froze on the stairs up and the very friendly guard encouraged me on!) where the wall floor was quite wide and sided by rock on each side. But as I travelled, the inner side opened to just an iron fence and the floor was significantly smaller. The floor is uneven rock and like all rock throughout the city, slippery. I very much had to force myself to continue. The stairs were the worst.

Alas, I made it to the end. Tomorrow I will attempt the other portion of the walk: from Jaffa Gate to Damascus Gate.

Below are some pictures of my travels:

Looking back toward the top of the stairs at my entry point behind Jaffa Gate and the Tower of David.

The narrow walkway that was sided by stone...nice and safe...and the plaque briefly explaining the history wall.

The southwestern corner tower in the Ottoman wall is built over the remains of a large fortress dated to the Fatimid and Crusader periods. The remains may be seen at the foot of and outside the tower.

And c'mon! Look at that rail...would you trust it? I really am higher up than this picture suggests :)

This was an Armenian cemetery as viewed from the wall.

And because every post so far has shown the Dome of the Rock...this was near where I dismounted the wall...in the Jewish Quarter, right near the Western Wall.

Today being Shabbat (the Jewish Sabbath), coming out at the Western Wall was quite something. I walked around the grounds but did not go up to the Wall, instead I just watched and listened as the Rabbis said their prayers. It was pretty spectualuar to witness.

No pictures are allowed on Shabbat out of respect for those in worship. Guards continually warn you against taking pictures. Standing at the entry gate watching, a group of men beside me started to snap photos. I leaned over and whispered to them the guards will take their cameras if they see. The dialogue after was something like:
Them: "I pay my taxes in this country...I come here...I'll take pictures if I want... What's the big deal?"
Me: It's the Sabbath and they belief it's disrespectful.
Them: Pfftt...whatever...it doesn't matter.
Kerri: It matters to them.

As Kerri walks away, the guards warn them about pictures.

After this, I wandered the Jewish quarter and a bit into the Muslim quarter, which I found a marked difference between. The Jewish quarter, while closed up, was busy with people heading to/from the Synogogue or the Wall. Men and women were well dressed and the men wore Kippah (a skull cap), Tallit (a prayer shawl) and Tefilin (small leather box with long leather straps attached, worn on the left forearm and on the forehead, inside which are passages from the scriptures). In contrast, the Muslim quarter seems very poor...dark and was nearly empty.

And just when I start to wonder if I've gotten myself lost...out I come back onto the Via Delorosa and into the market stalls.

Random Thoughts

1. The women travel in pairs or groups. Men travel alone or in pairs/groups. Less often am I noticing male-female couples.
2. Both male-male and female-female couples will walk arm-in-arm or hand-in-hand. I thought at first this might be due to congestion and an attempt to stick close to each other. But they do this on unbusy side streets, also. It could be affection. It could just be a show friendship.
3. The poor, sick or disabled are very evident here. Perhaps because I make connections to Biblical stories. Images I conjured of Blind Bartimaeus or of the paralyzed man lowered through the roof appear in front of me.
4. The streets are dirty. Not just from the dust that comes in through the desert, but people simply throw their wrappers, their liquids, garbage on the street. The cleaners come by...but the lack of funding available for sanitation and garbage removal (evident by the lack of garbage cans) is obvious.
5. I live next door to the Dept of Justice.
6. There are gecko-like lizzards here. They live in the gardens, from what I can gather. Yesterday, I caught sight of one, leaned over to find it, it scurried between my feet, making me jump and sqeak. I look for them from afar now...hope to get a picture of one before I leave.
7. The men and boys make comments as women walk by. I have no idea what they say...but my guess is my mother would wash their mouths out.

The Garden of Gethsemane and Mount of Olives

As you'll see from the pictures, she's called the Mount of Olives for a reason. The word "Gethsemane" originates from the Hebrew expression Gat Shemen, which means "olive press", in obvious reference to the natural abundance of these trees.

It's quite a hike up the mountain from the Garden of Gethsemane and Church of all Nations. And there are plenty of men waiting and offering taxis and tours...for a small price (I politely declined, preferring to take the hill on my own).

Not the best picture, but...

According to the Bible, Jesus was in such deep prayer/turmoil in Gethsemane that he sweat drops of blood which fell to the ground. The stone upon which he prayed is believed to be displayed in the Church of all Nations, directly in front of the altar.

 The above picture is the closest I could get to the stone (an Italian service was underway).

The Eastern Orthodox Church tradition believes Gethsemane is the garden where the Virgin Mary was buried and was assumed into heaven after her dormition on Mt. Zion. Mary`s tomb is quite a beautiful, underground structure. It is filled with Icons and hundreds of lanterns hang from the ceiling, used to light the tomb. The smell of incense is heavy (and wonderful!).

This photo is taken in the Greek Orthodox chapel. A prayer service was underway. Across the church is the Armenian chapel. A local "tour guide" who walked me through free of charge because I have "pretty eyes" told me quarrels often break out between the Greek and Armenian church over which group claims the donation funds.

I did not stop inside the tomb to take a picture (the line moves quickly through the low enclosure. This is a picture of the door entry:

Early Start

Up at 6h15 to head to morning Eucharist. It was just me and Rev Stephen Needs (Dean of St. George's College). I'm learning unless there is a group staying at the Cathedral/College, attendance can be pretty low!

Having a lovely Palestinian-style breakfast: pita with humus, a creamy cheese (like a meld of cream cheese and sour cream in one), hard boiled egg, honeydue mellon, cuccumbers and feta.  So. Good.

Let's talk humus: you've never tasted humus like the humus over here! It is incredibly creamy and literally available at every meal. In the grocery store, the humus selection is wider than our cheese selection at home. Wonderful.

While having some freshly squeezed OJ yesterday, the owner of the stall, who runs the Alternative Tours (which I will be taking advantage of next week), chatted with me about getting around and gaining a sense for the city and the people. He recommended touring the Old City solo, wandering and finding out where I land. I'm taking his advice and will wonder for the morning.

I'm about to head out for the morning to find the Garden of Gethesemane and Mt. of Olives (the garden at the foot of the Mount of Olives most famous as the place where Jesus and his disciples prayed the night before Jesus' crucifixion).

The "Wailing" Wall

Yes, I know I went to see the Western Wall yesterday, but I did not stop to pray or touch or simply watch the people in the square. Today I did.

There were significantly more people present today than yesterday and it seemed to be a day for Bar Mitzvahs. I didn't realize this went I approached and thought the group of young Israelies waving flags were part of a demonstration. There seemed to be more police present today, too. However, it was simply the festivities. 

A few other things struck me as I made my way down to my "women only" section of the wall. One, you'll notice from the picture, is how disproportionate the size of the men's portion of the Wall is to the women's (the umbrellas are along the dividing barrier). Two, was how respectful most people are while in front of the Wall. People line up (relatively) and wait for the person in front of them to finish praying, and then slide into place as they leave. Some of the women left the Wall walking backward so not to turn away from the sacred ground.

The notes of prayer slid into the cracks of the Wall! Fantastic to see in person. It is amazing how small people can squeeze a peice of paper to make it fit into a crack. It's amazing the Wall still stands after all these centuries with the added pressure (the notes are removed regularly and buried during a sacred ceremony on account the notes contain God's name and prayers from the heart).

This last picture, shows the women lined up looking over the barrier to the men's side as the men and boys celebrate a Bar Mitzvah. 


I admit, though I'm sure to no surprise to those who know me, that I succumbed to the wailing Wall's nickname. I didn't so much wail, but I was very moved and certainly had to wipe a tear or two away. 

Maybe it was being in the presence of such unison and diversity. Here, Jews, Muslims and Christians share space in worship and prayer and for that moment you can let youself rest in the peace of it.

Lemons and Olives and Grapes, Oh My

The Cathedral-College compound is filled with flowers and trees. The mixture is stunning, especially the palm trees among lemon and olive trees and grape vines.

I eat breakfast in the mornings in the garden. I can hear the school children across the street singing and shouting and the birds chirp like mad. 

Pictures will help illustrate, I'm sure. They're coming. I promise. I am without a cord to link the camera to my computer...a very stupid packing oversight. I am heading out on the hunt for one today.

I am going solo. Wish me luck.

Evening Prayer

Morning Eucharist is celebrated daily at 7am. I did not make it this morning.
Evening Prayer each day at 5:30 or 6pm.

Today I was asked to lead Evening Prayer. No problem. It's a simple said service.

Exciting: I got to ring the bells calling people to prayer.

A wee disappointing: no one heeded my call :)

Cool: Saying Evening Prayer, alone, in St. George's Cathedral, Jerusalem!

First Day

I arrived at St. George's Cathedral yesterday around 5pm. My two flights, with lay-over, the line at customs at the Tel Aviv airport and the drive from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem amounted to 17 hours of travel. I was exhausted last night and only had enough in me to take a brief look around, have a chat with Anna and Lois, two women who work at St. George's College, and then I fell into bed.

My room was underneath the children's school and apparently under some construction...so it was noisy falling asleep and waking up! I have since changed rooms and am settled into the Cathedral tower! It's a two-story flat and will be quite comfortable for my stay.

This morning I enjoyed my first Palestinian-style breakfast, which is offered daily by the Cathedral, and which I ate in the garden. I puttered around the Cathedral/College grounds for a bit, taking some pictures and walked up the street about 10 minutes to Damascus Gate. I sat watched people for about half an hour, only walking through the market roads to where they split: one heading toward the Christian quarter, one heading toward the Jewish quarter.

I walked with Anna this afternoon, back up through Damascus Gate and she gave me a lovely introduction to the Old City. It is phenomenal how you literally fall upon the Western (Wailing) Wall!! We entered the market road toward the Jewish quarter and as you come out of (I call it a tunnel...but it's like a covered market filled with stalls) you find yourself at the Western Wall. I hadn't expected that, so I was stunned when I realized where we were.

Western Wall: smaller than I expected in person (I don't know how big I thought it would be!) and exceedingly less crowded than I'd expected. Prayer/touching the wall is segregated by sex and the women's portion is noticably smaller. I will return early in the morning, when the crowds are low and the sun not so hot.

Perspective is a funny thing. Reading in the tour books or looking on line, I didn't understand how close things are to each other. Al-Asqa Mosque and Dome of the Rock are directly behind the Wall and you access them via a bridged walkway over the Wall.

We walked through the Jewish quarter (a LOT of stairs heading upward) and made our way toward the Christian quarter and BOOM, there's the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Very busy around early afternoon, so we made a very quick tour around it, went up through the Ethopian chapels (which are just to the outside of the Church).

I noticed while we were walking the number of Israeli flags sticking out of previously-owned Palestinian homes.

It is definitely hot here during the day.Covering up my arms and shoulders is difficult (not because I refuse, but because my body says "what the heck are you doing!?"

Pre-Departure

Everyone seems to have one question: Are you excited?

I am packed (three bags, yes, three!) and I'm leaving tomorrow evening via Frankfurt.

I'm remarkable calm. I think after six months of talking about going to Israel-Palestine, reading up on what I will be able to visit, deciding on what my first tours will be...it is so sureal to know I'll finally be there on Tuesday.

Obviously, I'm excited. I will be able to touch the ancient stones and walk among, talk to and experience the living stones. It's overwhelming...the idea of embarking on a journey so big I feel I can't yet truly understand how big it will be.

Oh yes. I'm excited.

Warnings to Canadians Travelling in Israel from the Department of Foreign Affairs, Canada

I found this interesting. I admit, some of the warnings are stronger than I would have expected (i.e. Public transportation should be avoided at all times).


WARNINGS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
Israel: Exercise normal security precautions / Exercise high degree of caution / Avoid non-essential travel / Avoid all travel.

Most Canadian visitors to Israel do not experience problems. However, the security situation can change rapidly. Canadians, including dual nationals, should carry their passports at all times and register with the Embassy of Canada in Tel Aviv.
In past years, terrorist incidents have occurred in a variety of locations in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, Eilat, Haifa, Beersheba, Netanya and other major populated centres, including at tourist sites and in public areas, causing numerous deaths and injuries. Foreigners have been affected but have never been directly targeted. There is potential for further violence. Incidents could be unpredictable and there is a strong risk that Canadians could find themselves in the middle of dangerous situations. Following terrorist incidents, the Government of Israel may establish checkpoints without warning. Canadians visiting urban areas should exercise caution, stay informed of the security situation, monitor local news reports and follow the advice of local authorities. Canadians should also avoid large gatherings, crowded places and demonstrations. Moreover, they should exercise extreme caution in public places, such as open markets and bus stations. Public transportation should be avoided at all times, especially during peak hours.
It is important to note that dual citizens who hold Canadian as well as Israeli citizenship are technically required by law to enter and exit from Israel or the West Bank showing their Israeli documentation.
For more, see: DFAIT